There's never been a more pleasing time when technology has become so advanced, and so affordable to the point where you can unleash your inner Filmmaker. You can go to film school and spend about thousands (if not hundreds of thousands in my case), to learn the basics and fundamentals of filmmaking and get hands-on experience to go with it, but these days, given the state of all mass produced education, one would have to wonder if it is even worth the on-screen investment.
To complicate the matter, you will hear differing opinions on what the best equipment to use is when it comes to filmmaking. This is where some would go really berserk or out of their way to try and convince you that a certain piece of equipment is better than the rest of them and they have this preconceived notion that you aren't a real filmmaker or a cinematographer if you don't have that piece of equipment. Their reasoning, the specs. Just like all things being equal in the tech community where talking about the specs of a piece of equipment is king or THE LORD OF ALL GADGETS AND DEVICES, the specs of any camera that offers recording videos as a feature reigns supreme with these guys. However, this isn't the whole story and since each filmmaker is different, choose what's best for you, since you're the one who will be embarking on this journey.
So, if you want to be a filmmaker or want to become a filmmaker, what are the options for you?
First, remember that it is not the camera or the equipment used to make the film that makes or breaks it, it is you the filmmaker and your vision. The saying: "Content is King", which is derived from the saying: "Cash is King", applies here. Same is true for NLE (Non-Linear Editing) software packages used to put the film together in post-production. More on that in this article...
So, what do you need to be able to make a good or great film when you have a vision that is calling out to you like the ring of power did in "THE LORD OF THE RINGS" with Frodo? Here's a list:
YOUR IDEA:
Make sure that your idea(s) satisfy the following:
- Hasn't been done before: i.e. unique in one way, shape or form,
- Sticks to one or two genres,
- Strong conflict, and
- Relatable.
THE SCRIPT:
In your script, make sure you:
- Avoid all clichés (at any and all costs),
- Avoid characters and plots that are super predictable (at any and all costs),
- Avoid any and all grammatical and spelling errors (at any and all costs),
- Read: "Save the Cat by Blake Synder" to get a good or better understanding of the story structure used by the industry,
- Have outsiders (not friends and family) read your work,
- Accept feedback and welcome criticism, and
- Work on any plotholes or anything that doesn't make sense (subjective) to the reader(s).
When it comes to readers, you want to cherry pick the feedback and or notes that are most useful to you and then go from there. There are readers who will simply discourage you by making excuses like:
- "This doesn't make any sense", or
- "This is illogical"
If every film were to make sense or be logical like it is in our world, the films wouldn't even be interesting or unique for us to watch. The readers who make such comments neither seem to understand this nor do appreciate the creativity and thought that goes into making a film.
If you were to ask me, readers today are ruining the whole movie-going experience because of their crummy attitude.
MAKING YOUR FILM:
THE EQUIPMENT
You will need:
- A camera (use what you have),
- Good or great quality (if you can afford it) lenses,
- A field mixer (for sound),
- A Shotgun microphone (that offers professional grade sound),
- A boom pole.
- A shock mount for the shotgun microphone
- A tripod (professional grade),
- Memory cards (for recording footage onto),
- A clapperboard (for scene or shot identification), and
- Lighting.
POST PRODUCTION:
For post-production, you will need:
- An NLE (Non-Linear Editing) Software package,
- Avid Media composer First (Free),
- Adobe Premiere Pro,
- Final Cut Pro (Must have an Apple Mac computer),
- A computer with an i7 processor (or equivalent CPU),
- A GPU with 2 GB or 4 GB or more of VRAM,
- 16GB of RAM or more installed in the computer,
- A few external Hard Disk Drives (more than 1 or 2 TB in size) to store all your footage.
You don't need to spend too much time or money on any or all of these, but here's what's important to get you started off with barebones.
THE CAMERA:
Make sure you have or purchase a camera that records only video. The reason for this is very simple: more video recording options for recording better quality videos. You are able to get away with something like a DSLR camera that also records video, but the problem there is that the files will be compressed extensively by the camera. Meaning you won't have the dynamic range to work within post when you edit and colour correct or colour balance the footage that you have recorded. The good thing about the dedicated cameras that focus solely record video is the fact that they offer some sort of a flat picture profile that you can work with that will enable you to adjust the colours to deliver a certain look or feel of your film.
The
Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K is a good place to start with. It has most of the options that we are talking about and a filmmaker would look for in a starter package for a video camera in compact size package.
You also want to pay close attention to the colour science that the camera will use to process the image captured by the lens of the camera, and make sure you understand the technical terms used like F-stop (Aperture), Focus, Focal length, and so on.
Get a camera that allows you to use detachable lenses and you'd preferably want a camera that offers manual control of your image.
THE LENSES:
There are quite a few options on offer in terms of lenses. All major brands of camera manufacturers like Canon and Sony offer their own lenses, featuring their own lens mounting system, but here are my recommendations for deciding on what brand lenses are best for you camera:
- Zeiss,
- Schneider Optics, and
- Samyang (also goes by Rokinon in some countries).
If you choose Canon or a camera that has a Canon mount for the lenses, then I would suggest either the Zeiss Milvus range of lenses or the Schneider Optics lenses. Both brands are German manufacturers and will offer you quality. However, you may want to check for deals on these lenses as they are expensive.
Samyang is a much more affordable alternative to the above brands as they are a Korean brand that offers you solid construction and quality at an affordable price tag.
IMAGE QUALITY:
There's a lot of controversy over the size of the image sensor used to make your film. The professionals in the film industry use cameras equipped with a Super35 image sensor. Panavision has a camera that films with a 35 mm image sensor with a 35mm film strip, but this is very expensive to rent and operate. You can get away with using a micro four-thirds image sensor (M43) or a camera that is equipped with an APS-C or APS-H size image sensor. These APS-C and -H size image sensors are equivalent to super 35 mm. You'll see a lot of camera models that have the APS-C type image sensors because it costs the camera manufacturers less to manufacture and sell to the general public. There is a misconception among the professional filmmakers who believe that going full frame (35mm size) is the way to go, because reasons. Nothing could be further from the truth, because image sensor technology is getting better and better - and besides, your smartphone and or your tablet computer has an image sensor the size of the tip of your pointing finger.
When recording footage for the film, always set the frame rate on your camera to 24 frames per second (the same used when using film stock and film cameras). There is nothing wrong setting the frame rate to 23.977 frames per second if you're dealing with a digital video camera, but you are making a film, so use 24 frames per second as your frame rate in your camera's settings menu.
You also would want to use a flat picture profile since it will give you the flexibility to adjust the colours in post-production to suit your needs to give the film the look and feel that you desire.
SOUND:
Sound is just as important to your film as the picture quality of your film. The major difference being: your audience will forgive you if your film has poor picture quality with excellent sound rather than the other way around. The ideal scenario is having both great picture and sound quality to add to the production value of your film.
You will need a field mixer to capture the sound record out in the field with a pre-amp that captures clean sound: i.e. no noise in the sound being recorded. You may be wondering: "why can't I simply use the built-in microphone that came with the camera?" An excellent question. If you listen to the sound that was recorded with the camera's built-in microphone and then compare it with the sound quality of a film, you will notice that there is a huge quality difference between them. The sound recorded with a professional grade microphone or shotgun microphone will offer.
Here are a few starter options for you to consider when looking at a field mixer or a portable sound recorder for your production:
- Zoom H4N or H4N Pro,
- Tascam DR40 or DR100 Mark 2,
- Zoom H6,
- Roland Edirol R-44 4 channel mixer.
There are others on the market, but the ones that the sound mixers and the boom operators (the professionals that record the sound) recommend and swear by are made by a company called "Sound Devices".
NOTE: DO NOT CUT CORNERS ON SOUND. INVEST MORE IN SOUND IF YOU HAVE TO.
As far as investing in a shotgun microphone is concerned, here are some options:
- RODE NTG3,
- SENNHEISER MKE 600,
- SENNHEISER MKH 416,
- AUDIO TECHNICA AT875, or
- AUDIO TECHNICA AT897.
There is a reason for why the industry uses shotgun microphones: because they have a directional polar pattern that picks up sound directly in front of whatever or whomever it is pointed at. This is why they call it a shotgun microphone.
You will need to understand the polar pattern of the microphone you are buying or getting. This will allow you to select the best microphone for the job, which also includes how it sounds to your ears.
Also, invest in a good pair of studio monitor headphones to go with your field mixer as they tend to pick up any and all nuances in the sound being captured. The studio monitoring headphones are also used when editing your film.
MEMORY CARDS:
The type of memory card you get will not only depend on the camera you use, but it will also depend on the speed of the memory card and how fast data (your film footage) can be recorded without any dropped frames. Look for a memory card that either indicates on the packaging that it supports speeds of 45MB(Megabytes)/second or more. If you are recording 4K video, you would definitely want to upgrade to a card that offers up to or a minimum of 95MB/second. 4K video uses more data than the regular high definition 1080p video. Also, if your camera allows for recording of more frames per second, then the higher speed memory cards will also come in handy.
The standard for all consumer and prosumer memory cards of choice for filmmakers is and always has been the SD (Secure Digital) card, first invented by Panasonic for their digital still cameras. There are other formats in use today. CF or Compact Flash cards are sturdy and well-built memory cards that are used by professionals. Unfortunately, these are slowly being phased out in favour of the new CFast card system that allows even faster record speeds. SONY have developed their own card format called the QXD card format. This is smaller in size compared to the CF (Compact Flash) card, but it is still sturdy and well built like a CF card.
LIGHTS:
The only thing you need to do is learn the basics of a three-point light set up:
- Key light,
- Fill light, and
- Backlight.
The Key light simply lights parts of your subject, leading to what is referred to by industry professionals as the Rembrandt effect. The fill light is self-explanatory. It fills the sections on the subject where the key light couldn't light up. The backlight is what separates the subject from the background, causing the audience to pay much attention to your subject than the background as well as the subject.
WORKING WITH ACTORS:
So, you've found the right actors to play the part in your film. You've held auditions and picked them carefully. Now what?
Now, you need to memorise and remember this cardinal rule: "actors understand action verbs". Meaning, they do not act out states of minds: i.e. being angry or sad. Give them a subtext or an intention behind the dialogue that they are delivering to work with. This is what separates an amateur director/filmmaker from a professional director who the actor is willing to work with time after time.
It will also be helpful if you took an acting class yourself, or if you aren't getting the performance that you are seeking from the actors. Directors make the mistake of explaining too much to their actors or not making it clear what kind of performance that they are looking for.
Actors also bring their own take to the roles they play, so make sure you understand this and work with it, adjusting accordingly.
Here are a couple of books to help you with this process:
PRODUCTION VALUE:
You will hear this about your film or any other film through the course of your career. What this means to you is basically, being asked this question: "does your film have a high production value or a low production value?"
A high production value is where everything in the film, from the sets, the actors, the locations, and or the props used in your film is not only awesome but adds value to your production. If you are able to achieve this in your film within a low budget, then you have achieved a quality film for less money. This is the ideal scenario for most producers, but there are producers in Hollywood, who will spare no expense on things that don't necessarily add to the story. A low production value is the complete opposite of this.
THE VISUAL ELEMENTS OF DIRECTING:
There are seven visual elements of directing. They include:
- Style,
- Shape,
- Colour,
- Rhythm,
- Space,
- Tone, and
- Mood
FILM SCHOOLS:
If you are keen on going to film school, make sure you are going to one that will teach you the seven visual elements of directing and how to successfully work with your actors. Pick one that doesn't have students that make mediocre films. You want them to not only cherish you the filmmaker, but you also want them to bring out the best in you to succeed in films above all else. They should also tell you about dealing with the legalities and the business of making films.
Always remember: It is you the filmmaker and your cast and crew that makes or breaks your film, not the equipment used to film it.
Here's a quote from a Boeing employee:
Quantity is something you count, quality is something you count on.
Here's another one (by moi):
I am not impressed by the 10,000 films you've made, but the one film that you have perfected.
Show us a story worth telling and we can completely fall in love with.